Maja Vidmar

Interview – Katie Brown

Katie Brown

30.11.1980

California

Climber/bouldering

Moto: It’ll be okay in the end. If it’s not okay, it’s not the end.

Let’s start with some climbing questions. I’m shure you have a route or a problem in mind that you’ll never forget. Why is it so special for you?

One route that I will never forget is the west face of El Cap. I think it is 11d (which in Yosemite can be hard) and 19 pitches. It is such a stunning route, and very varied, and I had a beautiful day with a good friend climbing it. It starts with several low angle, challenging and somewhat scary pitches. Then some easy climbing, culminating with a corner crux pitch with very thin gear and an overhanging crux pitch high above the ground. From that point there are some easy pitches through amazing, huge white quartzite crystal, then one more difficult slab move before several pitches of easy climbing that can be easily simul-climbed for efficiency. From the top you have to hike across the whole top of El Cap and then down the east ledges. It’s a very long day, but an incredible one and it’s one of the highest quality routes overall that I’ve ever done.

What are your weaknesses and where do you feel the storngest? Which climbing style is your favourite?

My weakness is definitely power. I’m not naturally powerful, and I don’t really train it, because bouldering frustrates me. I hate doing one move and falling off. When I’m climbing I want to be free to move and get in a flow and bouldering is very stop and go. I feel the strongest on long, traditional routes these days, and it’s also my favorite. I’m an endurance person, and I like coming down at the end of the day having climbed an entire feature and having my whole body, from my toes to my head, be tired.

Can you discribe how you feel when you are in the best shape ever, when you win something or you realize your goals and dreams. How is it when nothing goes as you want it or expect it?

I haven’t been in great shape for years. I just don’t have the passion or interest to train, but that is okay, because I wasn’t happy when I was in really great training shape, and I’m happy now. There is so much more in life to experience than climbing a hard route or winning a competition or training, and if you’re focusing on these things then sometimes you’re missing out on life. And life is short and not to be wasted.
Also, I’ve often found that when you don’t expect to do great things, that is when you do them, because your head is in a better place.

Do you believe that everything happens for a reason?

I don’t know. Not really. “Shit happens” as they say.

Are you supertitious? Do you have some special rituals?

No. I’m not superstitious and I don’t have special rituals. I used to, when I competed, but not anymore.

What are the things you appreciate the most on someone?

It depends. In a friend I appreciate honesty, compassion, camaradie, laughter, and a fun spirit, among other things. My best friends are people whom I won’t see for months but when I see them again it’s like we were never apart. In men I appreciate openness, confidence, an outgoing nature, and humor.

What is the thing you can’t resist, like your obsession?

Coffee. Clothes. My dog pawing me to go do something fun.

Your goals, dreams for the future?

I’m going to clothing design school right now, so one of my goals is to become a clothing designer. Also to climb more in Yosemite, and to travel to some new places that I haven’t been to yet.

Write something for the visitors of my web page.

Thanks for reading this interview!

Interview – Nalle Hukkataival

Nalle Hukkataival

8.9.1986

All over the world / Helsinki, Finland

Climber/bouldering

Moto: Why not?

Let’s start with some climbing questions. I’m shure you have a route or a problem in mind that you’ll never forget. Why is it so special for you?

I just got back from South Africa where I climbed this boulder called Sky, 8B+. What makes it so special is the pure dynamic movement on it. The problem climbs this beautiful 45 degree overhang. It has only three moves but each one of them is long dynamic jump to an iron cross and the best thing about it is that there is no way get around it, you just have to do these crazy dynos. I have always been interested in dynos and this problem is just perfect in that style.

What are your weaknesses and where do you feel the storngest? Which climbing style is your favourite?

My biggest weakness as a boulderer must be my endurance. I’m also much weaker on slopers than crimps. Dynamic climbing on steep rock is definately what I’m good at and like to do.

Can you discribe how you feel when you are in the best shape ever, when you win something or you realize your goals and dreams. How is it when nothing goes as you want it or expect it?

Usally I feel strongest when I’ve been on a trip for a few weeks. When you get into the style of climbing and learn to read the rock better things usually start to go much smoother. It’s a great feeling being in a good shape because not only you can climb harder problems but you can also climb more. Sometimes when you get over exited and don’t rest enough or you wreck your skin it gets really frustrating because you know that you could climb so much harder if you just would take a few rest days.

Do you believe that everything happens for a reason?

Sometimes it seems like it, but not really.

Are you supertitious? Do you have some special rituals?

I have a certain way I always chalk up but that’s it.

What are the things you appreciate the most on someone?

When climbing highballs it’s always nice to know that you can trust your friend to spot you well.

What is the thing you can’t resist, like your obsession?

What comes to climbing i would say dynos and crazy beta.

Your goals, dreams for the future?

I would like to travel somewehere where no-one has been climbing before and develope a new area.

Write something for the visitors of my web page.

Have fun climbing!

Interview – Katja Vidmar

Katja Vidmar

13.6.1984

Slovenia

Climber/bouldering

Moto: All you have is this moment.

Let’s start with some climbing questions. I’m shure you have a route or a problem in mind that you’ll never forget. Why is it so special for you?

I remember I wanted to do one beautiful arrete in Maltatal. I always want to do things that I think are beautiful and not necessarily the hardest. I needed many many tries for this arrete. Something was wrong all the time. It was hot or it was rainning or I had no more skin or I just couldn’t do it. But then one day I finally did it, it was so cool!

What are your weaknesses and where do you feel the storngest? Which climbing style is your favourite?

I’m not so strong on sloppers and dynos. But the thing is, when I’m in a good shape I don’t think about my weaknesses and I feel strong on every move.

Can you discribe how you feel when you are in the best shape ever, when you win something or you realize your goals and dreams. How is it when nothing goes as you want it or expect it?

For me it’s the best feeling in the world when I feel like nothing is impossible and when I really believe I can do every move. This feeling is better than winning and all. When nothing goes as I expect, it’s really hard for me to handle. First I’m in a bad mood, nerveus and everything. But then I realize (or somebody tells me) that I won’t get anywhere with this attitude. So I try to be more patient and I try to forget about my expectations and just climb. And then the good feelings come back again.

Do you believe that everything happens for a reason?

Yes, I believe everything happens for a reason, even the bad things.

Are you supertitious? Do yo have some special rituals?

I’m not superstitious and I don’t have any special rituals. My lucky number is 22 but that’s all.

What are the things you appreciate the most on someone?

I think honesty is the best quality someone can have. I like people who have a passion in life (it doesn’t have to be climbing) and I admire those who dare to be who they really are no matter what everyone else says.

What is the thing you can’t resist, like your obsession?

My obsession definitly climbing. The thing I can’t resist? Hmm…my boyfriend J.

Your goals, dreams for the future?

I don’t think about big goals right now. I want to finish this season as good as I started it and I’d like to go bouldering somewhere. Then I’ll think about what I want in the future.

Write something for the visitors of my web page.

Keep visiting Maja’s web page!

Bouldering in Val di Mello, photos by Roman Krajnik

Around the world

Last month I traveled almost the whole world. First, we went to The States. There was a world cup competition in Boulder Colorado. It was a great event, one of the best this year with interesting routes, amazing crowd and my final 4th place.

We were staying over at Jackies’ place and we trained in the Spot, one of the gyms in Boulder where she works. The last day we went outdoors. The ambient there was amazing. just look at the photo…

We continued our tour to China. There was a long journey ahead of us, many planes to catch: from Denver to Frankfurt to Shanghai, where was a Masters competition. As usual the organization was perfect. The routes from Simon and Chao Lei were super good. Everything was great till’ my performance in the finals where I had some kind of a black out… Anyway, I had a good time!

In no time we were back in the air. This time we went home for ”a coffee” and then back to the airport to Jordan, where another world cup event was coming up. I’ve never been there before and I was positively surprised about everything. The organization was good, the people were very nice and I climbed well. Mina and I, we were unbeatable this time. Mina used her biceps and climbed the highest and I fell one move lower.

The whole experience became perfect the last day, when we went to see beautiful Petro.

This month was real fun, interesting and successful. I came home for three whole days and we’re already going to a world cup in Valence for the weekend. I have nice memories from my victory in 2007. I hope this one will be just as good.

WORLD CUP PUURS

The competition in Puurs was once again one of the best in the season. The wall there is huge and the route setters did a great job. For me it was perfect till the semifinals, where I found myself in trouble and unfortunately I didn’t find the way out. It wasn’t enough for the finals so I had to watch the rest of the competition from the audience. Again, I can only say ”next time”.
Congrats to Jakob for his 5th victory in a row…amazing! And Ja-In for her great performance!

summer report and china tour

Again after a long time… yes, I’m still alive
This summer was super busy.
Lead world cup competitions started in Chamonix this season.  My expectations were much higher there but it didn’t work out for me.
The following World Championship in Arco was the same story. I came back home pretty disappointed.

But I stayed motivated for training and I kept on believing that I’m still a top competition climber. So I proved it next weekend in Briancon. It was a very sweet victory for me because I haven’t won a world cup for quite a while.

One month summer training went by quickly and we were already on the plane to China where we had two competitions in a row.  First one in Xining where I ended on good 4th place but no podium for me. In a few days I had another chance. I got 3rd place just because I didn’t make both tops in qualification round. I finished the semifinal and the final route with top but it wasn’t enough for winning. I was still happy with my climbing and the result in the end. All congratulations to Mina who climbed all routes to the top.

Now we’re back home all jet-legged. And we need to reconnect to Europe time and everything. In 2 weeks the second part of the season starts. It’s gonna be even more busy than summer but I’m sure it’s gonna be fun and successful.

summer report and china tour

Toscana trip

Finally a short escape from everyday routine to rock climbing! Anže and I, we were planning to go to France, but it’s kind of a long drive for a week of climbing. Luckily I ran into Bečan the day before leaving and he recommended me to check out Toscana and he even found a topo in his car by accident. We also got a phone number from a local guy there, Paulo.
Next day we were there, just 6 hours driving, no traffic, no stress… We met Paulo there and he showed us two awesome sectors and the best lines. One day he showed us one crazy secret spot. So we had so many good climbing to do in a week.
We started our climbing days with a morning cup of coffee in Camaiore, then we were climbing until 5pm (that’s when the sun came in), eat pasta like real italians and in the evening it was time to hang out on the beach. Anže was the only one brave enough to check out the sea temperature
For that short but perfect holidays I want thank Bečan for the idea and Paulo and Marta the dog for showing us those great spots.
On this trip we mostly tried to on-sight routes and I succeeded in some 7c+, 8a, 8a+… and for a nice ending I added one more 8b on sight on my tick list! Short and sweet, now back to plastic training